Showing posts with label Travel India. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel India. Show all posts

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Coorg in the Summer

It's strange but true. I've been (traveling) in India for so long now that I'm beginning to return to places that I have visited before. I remembered my last Coorg trip being colder, wetter and gloomier. This trip looks more like this:

Coorg

"A" and I wanted to submerge ourselves in the forests and learn a little bit about organic and eco-farming and Rainforest Retreat seemed perfect. Located up on the hillside, about 15km from Madikeri, Rainforest Retreat is literally surrounded by nothing but trees.

Rainforest Retreat
Click here for website.

You should only stay here if:
a) You (and your friends/family members) are ready to socialize with other guests because you'll be seeing them at every meal (or come on the weekdays to avoid the crowd).
b) You want to be far away from modern civilization and experience living in nature (life is very basic here, no cell phone reception or wifi, so you can leave your iPhones behind).
c) You are ready to go on 2-4 hour jungle treks (bring good walking/trekking shoes).
d) You don't mind bug and leech bites (bring long socks and mosquito repellent).

Rainforest Retreat
Our room, apparently one of the nicer ones. I was OK with the room ("A" thought it was too basic) except it was situated next to the dining area, so it was noisy all the time. I won't recommend staying in this room at all, unless you are an early riser and a late sleeper.

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The communal dining area that was next to our room.

Rainforest Retreat
Our bathroom. Check out the clay hot water container. It was manually heated by burning wood right outside the building.

Rainforest Retreat
The tents. If we knew these existed, we would've signed-up to stay here instead. The tents are big enough for two single beds and sit on top of the hill, overlooking this...

Rainforest Retreat
Organic plantation of vanilla beans, cardamons, coffees, teas, peppercorns and a lot more.

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Here's the pavilion or the "reception" area and the only place in the whole lodge with electrical outlets.

Rainforest organized a few hiking trips in the forest and in and out of some other plantations.

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Hiking uphill.

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Cows grazing in the paddy fields.

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Someone's abandoned tea plantation.

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A thousand year old tree.

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Tarring the roads.

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The town's post office.

River in Coorg
Some locals doing laundry by the river.

Calf
Some other locals doing nothing by the river.

On our last day, Arun, the lodge manager, gave us a plantation tour and we discovered so much more of what Rainforest Retreat has to offer. He explained the many ways the plantation is recycling waste from animals and plants, which I found to be super interesting.

Rainforest Retreat
Here's where they produce methane gas (from cow dung), used in their kitchen stoves to cook our food!

Rainforest Retreat
We saw this little caterpillar (looks like a dragon, no?) while hanging outside Arun's room discussing reincarnation. Yes, we were there for a while.

Rainforest Retreat
Arun and some nice backpackers whom we played pictionary with on our first night at Rainforest Retreat.

Thanks Arun for being such a wonderful host!

Madikeri Town

Madikeri
Madikeri Fort - this is probably the only touristy thing we did on the whole trip. There is a temple inside that was removed by the British and was replaced by an Anglian Church, which is now converted to a museum.

Madikeri
A door in the fort.

On our way back to Bangalore, we dropped by Bylakuppe, a Tibetan settlement, to visit some fellow Buddhists. Note: "A" is not a Buddhist. Here is some information on Bylakuppe from an older post.

The Golden Temple, Byllakupe
The famous Golden Temple.

Monks in Byllakupe
We saw many Tibetan monks practicing what "A" called as the sound of "one hand clapping".

After a weekend of "roughing it", we thought we should treat ourselves to a day of luxury. While looking for Bylakuppe, we stumbled upon an enticing billboard that said "Spa on the Kaveri River". Before we knew it, we were checking in to a bungalow at Amanvana Spa and Resort.

Amanvana Spa and Resort

Amanvana, Coorg
The quality of this place is comparable to what you'd get at a resort in Bali. In fact, with the nicely manicured gardens and the beautifully blossomed frangipani trees, you'd think you were in Bali.

Amanvana Spa
Our private villa.

Amanvana Spa
Our bathroom.

Kaveri River
The Kaveri River, literally a step away from the resort.

The funny thing about traveling in India is that you never know what to expect. "A"'s advice: stop having expectations.

More pictures from this trip.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Badami

I've been wanting to visit Badami since the last 3 times I came to India but failed to do so because unlike Hampi, Badami is pretty challenging get to.

Badami is a very pretty place but the lack of signage makes walking is a bit annoying. You will just have to be a bit more adventurous and explore small paths that may lead you to amazing sights.

Badami
Locals

Badami

Badami
Tomb

Badami
Locals

Badami
Temple

Badami lanes
Badami Lanes



How to get there:
We went there by train, departing from Yeswantpur train station (west of Bangalore) to Badami train station. The trip took close to 14 hours, but it's an overnight train (back and forth) so you safe time and hotel cost. Cost of one way ticket for a 3-tier air-conditioned sleeper is about Rs900.

Where to sleep:
There's really no luxurious hotels like the Taj here mainly because it is still very underdeveloped, which is nice in a way. Lonely planet and some other websites suggested Badami Court and listed the rate at Rs2500/night but when we called, they say that was the rate back in 2004. Today, it costs about Rs4000/night. But this is as good as it gets, even though I think the price is a little high for the lack of quality (and cleanliness) they provided.
Email: rafiqmht@blr.vsnl.net.in or Telephone: 08357-720230 - 33

    Monday, April 13, 2009

    Dharamsala

    I am a tad disappointed not because I didn’t get to see the man himself but because I was expecting something more tranquil. After all, this is where the Dalai Lama resides. By the way, it’s quite impossible to see the Dalai Lama unless he gives a public talk or you’re a famous someone who made an appointment 4 months ago. There is no doubt that the Himalaya is beautiful but I can’t help but to think Dharamsala is a bit strange.

    View from the plane of snow capped Himalaya mountains.

    On my flight from Delhi to Dharamsala, I saw an elderly monk in saffron colored robes, stroking the thighs of a pregnant woman, which could very well be his wife but it was strange to me because I didn’t think Buddhist monks were allowed to get married. Then, sitting next to me was another Buddhist monk, this one is young, handsome and well built and holding hands with a Caucasian woman old enough to be his mother.

    Anand, Auntie Sheila (his mom) and I stayed in McLeod Ganj, the alleged "backpacker's paradise". Apparently, this town was pretty dead until Dalai Lama and his entourage of Tibetan Buddhists claimed asylum here in 1960.

    Tibetan monks.


    McLeod Ganj town.

    The Hotel
    Pema Thang Guest House, site: www.pemathang.net, ph: 221871
    Price: Rs1500/night for 3 persons


    Anand and I really wanted to stay at Chonor House Guest House, especially knowing that this is where Richard Gere would stay whenever he’s in town. Unfortunately, we didn’t reserve in advance, hence, we ended up at Pema Thang Guest House, a humble hotel ran by some friendly Tibetans.


    Bedroom at Pema Tang Guest House


    View from Pema Thang restaurant - Buddhist script flags.

    The Food
    There is a wide variety of backpacker restaurants in McLeod Ganj. According to a travel magazine review, the food here is “as good as the ones back home” (home being Israel, Seattle etc). Unfortunately, I wouldn’t know because I had traveler’s diarrhea on day 2. So instead of some yummy international foods, this is what I frequently ate and drank on my trip.

    Curd and rice.

    Electrolyte drink is great for dehydration.

    And here're some local delights...

    Tibetan Tea - no sugar, just salt and a bit of yak butter and milk.


    I can't recall if this Tibetan noodle soup is call Thentuk, Thukpa or something else. The freshly made noodles were al dante and the broth was savory-sweet by vegetables and a few thinly sliced lamb.

    Tsuglagkhang Complex
    This complex consists of a temple, a monastry and some shops. The Kalachakra Temple is not the most impressive but has an absolutely stunning view. The Lonely Planet wrote that on most evenings, you could catch monks “sealing points of argument with great flourish, a foot stamp and theatrical clap of the hands”, debating topics of Buddhist metaphysics, around the Namgyal Gompa monastry. We came to this complex several times and asked at least 9 monks about the debate but no one seem to know what we were talking about. We gave up after the third try.


    Tsuglagkhang temple.


    No trees were harmed while building this complex.


    The conventional and traditional way of lighting candles or oil lamps.


    Kalachakra mandala (Wheel of Time)


    Buddhist Mantra


    Having a cuppa chai and lassi at the Namgyal Cafe.

    The Treks
    One of the nicest treks we took was on Mall Road, which would lead you to Dal Lake, the home of Tibetan Children’s village. I never made it there, but Anand said it's not much of a village and the lake looked sad.


    View from our treks around McLeod Ganj.


    More views from our treks around McLeod Ganj.


    I was taking pictures of an eagle that was flying above these guys and they started shouting "(give us) 50 rupees!" at me.

    Norbulingka Institute
    I think this institute made it worthwhile to visit Dharamsala. It’s about 6km from Dharamsala and was established to preserve traditional Tibetan art forms.


    Thangka painting.


    A finished thangka painting.


    Making Padmasambhava or Guru Rinpoche statue.


    Doll of a debating Buddhist monk at the Losel Doll Museum

    More pictures of Dharamsala