Showing posts with label Travel India - South. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel India - South. Show all posts

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Coorg in the Summer

It's strange but true. I've been (traveling) in India for so long now that I'm beginning to return to places that I have visited before. I remembered my last Coorg trip being colder, wetter and gloomier. This trip looks more like this:

Coorg

"A" and I wanted to submerge ourselves in the forests and learn a little bit about organic and eco-farming and Rainforest Retreat seemed perfect. Located up on the hillside, about 15km from Madikeri, Rainforest Retreat is literally surrounded by nothing but trees.

Rainforest Retreat
Click here for website.

You should only stay here if:
a) You (and your friends/family members) are ready to socialize with other guests because you'll be seeing them at every meal (or come on the weekdays to avoid the crowd).
b) You want to be far away from modern civilization and experience living in nature (life is very basic here, no cell phone reception or wifi, so you can leave your iPhones behind).
c) You are ready to go on 2-4 hour jungle treks (bring good walking/trekking shoes).
d) You don't mind bug and leech bites (bring long socks and mosquito repellent).

Rainforest Retreat
Our room, apparently one of the nicer ones. I was OK with the room ("A" thought it was too basic) except it was situated next to the dining area, so it was noisy all the time. I won't recommend staying in this room at all, unless you are an early riser and a late sleeper.

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The communal dining area that was next to our room.

Rainforest Retreat
Our bathroom. Check out the clay hot water container. It was manually heated by burning wood right outside the building.

Rainforest Retreat
The tents. If we knew these existed, we would've signed-up to stay here instead. The tents are big enough for two single beds and sit on top of the hill, overlooking this...

Rainforest Retreat
Organic plantation of vanilla beans, cardamons, coffees, teas, peppercorns and a lot more.

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Here's the pavilion or the "reception" area and the only place in the whole lodge with electrical outlets.

Rainforest organized a few hiking trips in the forest and in and out of some other plantations.

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Hiking uphill.

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Cows grazing in the paddy fields.

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Someone's abandoned tea plantation.

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A thousand year old tree.

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Tarring the roads.

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The town's post office.

River in Coorg
Some locals doing laundry by the river.

Calf
Some other locals doing nothing by the river.

On our last day, Arun, the lodge manager, gave us a plantation tour and we discovered so much more of what Rainforest Retreat has to offer. He explained the many ways the plantation is recycling waste from animals and plants, which I found to be super interesting.

Rainforest Retreat
Here's where they produce methane gas (from cow dung), used in their kitchen stoves to cook our food!

Rainforest Retreat
We saw this little caterpillar (looks like a dragon, no?) while hanging outside Arun's room discussing reincarnation. Yes, we were there for a while.

Rainforest Retreat
Arun and some nice backpackers whom we played pictionary with on our first night at Rainforest Retreat.

Thanks Arun for being such a wonderful host!

Madikeri Town

Madikeri
Madikeri Fort - this is probably the only touristy thing we did on the whole trip. There is a temple inside that was removed by the British and was replaced by an Anglian Church, which is now converted to a museum.

Madikeri
A door in the fort.

On our way back to Bangalore, we dropped by Bylakuppe, a Tibetan settlement, to visit some fellow Buddhists. Note: "A" is not a Buddhist. Here is some information on Bylakuppe from an older post.

The Golden Temple, Byllakupe
The famous Golden Temple.

Monks in Byllakupe
We saw many Tibetan monks practicing what "A" called as the sound of "one hand clapping".

After a weekend of "roughing it", we thought we should treat ourselves to a day of luxury. While looking for Bylakuppe, we stumbled upon an enticing billboard that said "Spa on the Kaveri River". Before we knew it, we were checking in to a bungalow at Amanvana Spa and Resort.

Amanvana Spa and Resort

Amanvana, Coorg
The quality of this place is comparable to what you'd get at a resort in Bali. In fact, with the nicely manicured gardens and the beautifully blossomed frangipani trees, you'd think you were in Bali.

Amanvana Spa
Our private villa.

Amanvana Spa
Our bathroom.

Kaveri River
The Kaveri River, literally a step away from the resort.

The funny thing about traveling in India is that you never know what to expect. "A"'s advice: stop having expectations.

More pictures from this trip.

Thursday, March 18, 2010

Goa Hush-Hush

I was contemplating for a moment if I should write this post since the places mentioned here are only known to locals and the only reason why we even found out about them was because on their first day, A’s dad bumped into a restaurant owner from Bangalore who frequently visited Goa.

Near Morjim Beach
First off, let me tell you about the place we chose to stay. Siolim House is a charming restored 300-year-old Portuguese villa that is tucked away in the leafy lanes near Morjim beach. The original owner was a governor to Macau and according to Lonely Planet, this place contains more antiques than the British Museum.

Siolim House
Entrance to Siolim House

Siolim House
Siolim House courtyard

Siolim House
Inside Siolim House

Siolim House
Our room

A Goan Greek
This place is a gem! This restaurant is located on a cliff and overlooks the sandy beach and coconut treetops. We didn’t get here in time but A’s parents sat at this table and watched sunset while sipping on freshly squeezed orange juice. We met the bubbly owner who is a Greek lady who has been in living in Goa for 25 years and started off by selling lamb wraps at the Anjuna flea market. After much persuasion from her customers, she opened this restaurant.

Greek restaurant in Goa

Dancing in a Greek restaurant in Goa
Customers dancing to Greek songs

Grilled fish
Grilled fish. The food here is a bit more pungent and complex compared to what you would get in Athens or Santorini mainly because the owner came from a Greek island that is located on the west, near Sicily.

Under the Nerul bridge
… you will see a little brick building painted in sea-blue. The people who reside in this building also run a little restaurant called Amigos.

Amigos
Amigos services on a mural, under the Nerul bridge.

Mud crab in garlic-butter sauce
Giant mud crab is one of Amigos' signature dish. We ordered two, this one cooked in garlic butter sauce.

Goan curry + poi (Goan bread)
Goan prawn curry with poi (Goan bread)

Taking a fishing boat into the sea
After lunch, with Auntie Bina’s superb negotiating skills, we went on a boat ride on the river towards the sea.

Picking shells
Fisherman picking sea shells.

Mansion on the Aguada hill
On our boat, we saw this private mansion on Aguada hill.

More photos on Goa
Previous stories on Goa

Saturday, January 24, 2009

South India Jungle Safari

This post is long overdue and so I got my buddy Anand to contribute (without his consent - so is this ok, Anand?). Just to give you a bit of context, the 5 of us took an extended weekend trip to Masinagudi Forest Reserve for a jungle safari. Here's Anand's summary of our trip.
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Candilini!
Can also lah :)
Here you go... as best as I can remember:
Saturday:
Morning Leave Bangalore
Stop at Kamat Lokaruchi for brekker Mysore - Bandipur - Masinagudi - Singarra - Anekadu
Lunch at Anekadu
Post lunch sack out
Early evening walk around the estate
Late evening Jeep Safari
Night Bonfire / Barbeque / Dinner


Saw this leaf while trekking. Check out the thorns.

Lorenzo showing tiger scratches on the tree
Lorenzo pointing at scratches apparently by tigers on the trunk.

Sunday:
Morning trek around the estate -- see heaps of elephant dung but no elephants :(
Breakfast at Anekadu
Post breakfast leave for Forest Hills (Bokkapuram) via Masinagudi - PO: Forest Hills is our second hotel. We slept in tree houses. Anand, Lorenzo and I shared a house call Machaan)
Sack out at Machaan
Lunch at Forest Hills
More sacking out at Machaan
Hike to the water pool
Still more sacking out at Machaan [By now undisputedly our favourite line item :)]
Bonfire
Dinner at Forest Hills


One of the tree houses we stayed at Forest Hills


The rooftop of the other tree house - Machaan

Monday:
Morning -- outstanding trek covering part of the elephant corridor and some tiger trails (See tiger pugmarks, tiger Cave et al) - PO: May I add, total trekked time was about 4 hours.
Breakfast at Forest Hills
Leave late morning for Bangalore -- attempts to get the cook to move to Bangalore do not meet with success :)
Stop at Mysore for late lunch at Hotel Metropole
Stop en route to Bangalore at Channapatna for '5 minutes' to buy wooden toys and stuff - PO: Er, 5 minutes turned out to be 2.5 hours.
Reach Bangalore late evening



Tiger pugmarks

Cheers,
Anand

More Jungle Safari Pictures

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Ooty

Ooty is a popular hill station in Tamil Nadu that was established by the British in the early 19th century. This scenic and somewhat romantic place is about 6-8 hours drive from Bangalore and is perfect for an extended cool and relaxing weekend getaway from the noisy and dusty city.


Meet this weekend's travel buddies Madhu and Kan with Ravee, our excellent driver cum Ooty tour guide (Ravee is very familiar with Ooty because he and his wife came here for their honeymoon) and a random old female monkey. View from Dolphin Nose.

Coonoor toy train
Toy train ride to Coonor.


Tea plantation at Highfield Tea factory, Coonor


Botanical Garden, Ooty

We stayed at Destiny’s Farm located in Emerald Hill or Dam, about 25 km away from Ooty. The hotel has a farm/cowboy theme and the place looks more like Texas than India. To get here, you have to park your car about 1 km away and a huge tractor will bring you to the hotel because the roads were apparently dugout by the government to protect the wildlife in the forest reserve. If you decide to stay here, I would suggest this be your first or last stop because it's quite a pain to go back and forth Ooty. The tariff includes trekking, fishing, horseback riding and Kum Ba Yah bonfire to keep you busy during your stay.
http://www.littlearth.in/destiny/


Kan taking a nap after fishing.


Horseback-riding.


The farmstay is fenced with electric barbed wire to keep wild animals away. Here is our trek destination, right outside the fenced perimeter. The locals use coracle to cross the dam bringing with them fresh vegetables and fruits.

On our way back to Bangalore, we drove through Mudumalai National Park and saw some wild elephants, mongoose and peacocks.


More Ooty Pictures.